The Olive Shed

The Olive Shed is contained within a curious hovel in Bristol's Harbourside, it wisely avoids vying for attention with the array of egregious bars that clutter much of the area. To use an expression for which I have an irrationally strong dislike, the Olive Shed is 'tucked away' on the far side of the Harbourside allowing it to benefit from the views yet affording sufficient independence to create its own ambiance. This is in itself a task which would make most establishments baulk, in spite of the truism that in good restaurants you only notice atmosphere when it is not there. At least if you bother to comment on it your conversation has run dry and you won't be making it to the second date.

The place has accrued a strong reputation which has imbued a palpable sense of confidence. Perhaps too much so, but it works. Intentionally or not, this contrives to create (imitate) the Mediterranean atmosphere that it craves and comes as close to achieving this as will ever occur in the West Country.

When I say craving I do not seek to be facetious, the decor, tables and the rest are all trying hard to support the theme. The menu is Spanish-led Mediterranean fare that should take more risks and not charge £3.25 for a slice of tortilla.

Cutting the preamble, my starter was disappointing. I could bemoan the lack of salmon - despite it being theoretically the primary ingredient, equally I might lament the desperately bland prawns. But if I did then there would be the opportunity cost of underlining the lack of seasoning and absence of sauce or dressing. Let me say this: some cheeky bugger went to Sainsbury's, not Asda, having seen a picture of a similar dish in a Jamie Oliver publication and unceremoniously attempted to recreate it.

On the other side of the table a stuffed aubergine disappeared without a word of complaint, nor an utterance of praise mind. I had indulged in ordering some albondigas alongside the starters, my personal barometer of a Spanish restaurant. Hunger forced me to devour the lot, which belied their inanity - oh and the sauce was warmed-up tomato passata.

Preconceptions blight any one's first time at any restaurant, formed perhaps as they approach on the street or by a review read five years previously. Mine derived from the former and truth be told I was encouraged, a positive vibe tickled my exposed ankles as I breezed in. The last of this positive vibe had all but been dissipated by my starter and my good will was looking for something more malicious to morph into.

And lo, redemption arrived. I had elected to have the steak special (accompanied by hand-made chips) for my main, the plate contained no more or less than it had promised. The meat in the centre was coated in a discomforting brown sauce which emitted a hint of mushroom.

Brilliant. Simply it was. As a proudly carnivorous type who rarely (or should that be medium-rarely?) passes up the chance to eat steak I have thrown a considerable amount of it down me and frankly I have become too accustomed to mediocre steaks. In this instance the cut, the cooking and the splendrous sauce...so scarcely has a steak dish excited me so.

The minimalist approach to garnish was also a feature of the trout which arrived opposite me. Presentation is lacking here, but I suspect that in order to achieve the rustic look so yearned for, the underwhelming aesthetics are not un-intentional.

That said there was nothing rustic about the prices, which were distinctly urban. Service scored well on effort; the sole waitress was intermittently joined by a confused hippie who turned out to be a paranoid waiter, whom I intend to include in a script when I get around to writing sitcoms.

Stylish, relaxed although some the ingredients and staff need to be better sourced. The Olive Shed has much high praise lavished on it, so it will survive if I reserve mine.

2.5 meatballs out of 5

The Olive Shed, Princes Wharf, Bristol, BS1 4Rn